In search of a balanced diet and aligned with more responsible practices, restaurants in São Paulo have been rethinking the foundations of their kitchens. The movement involves both technical choices – such as the adoption of ingredients that preserve better flavor and texture – as well as the appreciation of the production chain, the origin of the food, and the socio-projectal impact of each dish. Among the examples of this new perspective is Lanchonete da Cidade, which revised its processes to offer lighter preparations consistent with the adoption of high oleic sunflower oil – rich in oleic acid and resistant to high temperatures, resulting in lighter, crispier preparations with less nutritional and projectal degradation. The change brought noticeable improvements in the quality of the portions and reinforced a greater commitment to transparency and care in the kitchen. "Small decisions, when added up, build a lighter and more responsible kitchen," says Rafael Rigotto, experience manager of the brand, which plans to expand the new standards to all units by 2025.
From farm to table
The trend, however, goes far beyond kitchen adjustments: it is primarily revealed in the strengthening of farm to table, which has gained strength in establishments that prioritize fresh, seasonal ingredients from responsible producers. One of the biggest examples is Blaise, on the ground floor of Rosewood São Paulo, the only Brazilian restaurant with a maximum score in the international Food Made Good certification, which recognizes good sustainability practices in hospitality. The establishment adopts guidelines that include traceability of inputs, support for small producers, team well-being, and community actions. "Our kitchen values the time of the land and the true flavor," says chef Fernando Bouzan. The vegetables are agroecological, the fish comes from artisanal fishing off the northern coast, and the meats are sourced from certified farms in the interior of São Paulo.
The philosophy also guides the work of chef Denis Orsi, at the helm of Marena Cucina, for whom farm to table is more than a concept – it is structure. "We seek fresh, seasonal ingredients grown with respect," he says. The restaurant prioritizes suppliers who operate with responsible cultivation, absence of pesticides, and regenerative practices. For him, the current consumer is increasingly aware of the origin and impact of what they consume: "The future of Brazilian gastronomy involves valuing origin, seasonality, and real flavor."
