472 years of São Paulo: 6 classic dishes to celebrate

São Paulo is not just the main gastronomic hub in the country — it is also a territory where stories, cultures, and affections meet at the table. Amidst the fast-paced routine of the metropolis, between bars, family canteens, traditional restaurants, and snack bars that cross the nights, dishes have emerged that helped narrate the city's journey.

Recipes created to satiate the everyday hunger, welcome workers, celebrate gatherings, or make use of available ingredients have crossed decades and gained the status of classics. More than just a list of recipes, it is a walk through the memory of São Paulo and an invitation to celebrate, on the city's anniversary, flavors that helped define the culinary identity of the largest metropolis in Brazil.

1. Cuscuz Paulista

A symbol of São Paulo's affectionate cuisine, cuscuz paulista is a direct result of the meeting of cultures that shaped the state's table. Heir to the couscous of Arab origin — brought by the Portuguese and adapted in colonial Brazil — it gained its own identity through the use of corn, an abundant ingredient in the interior of São Paulo. Over time, the recipe incorporated elements of caiçara and tropeira cuisine, such as shrimp, eggs, sardines, and vegetables, reflecting both life on the coast and the paths of the interior.

"More than just a recipe, cuscuz paulista is affectionate memory in the form of food. It carries Brazilian miscegenation and is always present at family lunches, popular festivals, and Sunday tables, where tradition remains alive," says chef Fellipe Zanuto from the restaurant Hospedaria in Itaim Bibi.

2. Virado à Paulista

Born from the practical needs of the bandeirantes during the colonial period, virado à paulista is one of the most emblematic dishes of São Paulo's cuisine. Created as a meal for long expeditions, it brought together simple and transport-resistant ingredients like beans, flour, and meats, which were mixed and "turned" during the journey — the origin of the name that has lasted for centuries.

Over time, the preparation evolved into the full version we know today, with beans turned into flour, sautéed kale, fried egg, cracklings, and pork chop. Traditionally served on Mondays, the dish continues to be a gastronomic ritual in the city, present both in historic bars and in restaurants like the one served at Pirajá that reinterpret the recipe without losing its essence.

3. Arroz Biro-Biro

A classic that was born out of informality, arroz biro-biro is an example of how everyday creativity can turn into tradition. Created in the old Churrascaria Rodeio, the recipe emerged when a customer asked for a fancier rice to accompany the sirloin steak. From there, the dish gained new elements — egg, straw potato, onion, chives, and bacon — until it became an iconic side dish.

[caption id="69716c94dd8c9c604ce07999" width="736" data-alt="Bife de chorizo with arroz birô birô, butter bean vinaigrette, and tucupi demiglace, from the Varanda D.inner restaurant." data-caption="Bife de chorizo with arroz birô birô, butter bean vinaigrette, and tucupi demiglace, from the Varanda D.inner restaurant." data-credit="Henrique Peron" data-source-id="68f2b8ff98f18c7f5f5e4deb" data-source-name="Divulgação"][/caption>

"The name was given by maître Cecílio, who thought the mixture resembled the curly blonde hair of soccer player Biro-Biro," says Sylvio Lazzarini, head of Grupo Varanda. Popularized among patrons, the preparation became a fixture on the menus of traditional restaurants in the city, solidifying its place in São Paulo's gastronomic memory.

4. Beirute

Home to the largest Lebanese community outside Lebanon, São Paulo has deeply incorporated the flavors of this immigration into its food culture. Esfihas, quibes, and dips are already part of the city's everyday repertoire — and among them, the beirute occupies a special place. Although it bears the name of the Lebanese capital, the sandwich in Syrian bread is a Paulista creation.

[caption id="69716d4fdd8c9c604ce0799f" width="736" data-alt="Beirute from the Sabah restaurant." data-caption="Beirute from the Sabah restaurant." data-credit="Sabah" data-source-id="68f2b8ff98f18c7f5f5e4deb" data-source-name="Divulgação"][/caption>

According to Bruno Sabbag, a partner at the Arabic restaurant Sabah, the beirute emerged in the capital in the 1950s. "The name was given merely as a homage to Beirut," he explains. Stuffed with typical meats, cheeses, and sides, the sandwich spread across bakeries, snack bars, and restaurants, becoming a symbol of the cultural adaptation that marks the city's gastronomy.

5. Coxinha

Few savory snacks represent Brazil as well as the coxinha — and São Paulo plays a central role in its history. Of controversial origins, the most widespread version dates back to the interior of São Paulo, at Fazenda Morro Azul in Limeira, where the recipe is said to have been created in the late 19th century to meet an improvised need of the imperial kitchen.

[caption id="69716d4fdd8c9c604ce0799e" width="736" data-alt="Coxinha from Bar Original." data-caption="Coxinha from Bar Original." data-credit="Bar Original" data-source-id="68f2b8ff98f18c7f5f5e4deb" data-source-name="Divulgação"][/caption>

Shaped like a chicken thigh and made from a potato-based dough with shredded chicken filling, the coxinha quickly gained popularity, crossing social classes and becoming a mandatory presence in bars, bakeries, and parties. Today, it continues to be reinterpreted, without losing its affectionate and democratic character.

6. Bolovo

A boiled egg wrapped in ground meat, breaded, and fried: simple in form, intense in flavor. The bolovo, a type of Brazilian cousin of the British scotch egg, gained popularity in São Paulo bars, especially from the 2000s onward. The recipe found its place through its direct and comforting combination, perfect for accompanying casual bar conversations.

[caption id="69716d4fdd8c9c604ce0799d" width="736" data-alt="Bolovo served at Câmara Fria bar." data-caption="Bolovo served at Câmara Fria bar." data-credit="Mário Rodrigues" data-source-id="68f2b8ff98f18c7f5f5e4deb" data-source-name="Divulgação"][/caption>

In recent years, the treat has also undergone more elaborate reinterpretations, appearing on contemporary menus, such as that of Câmara Fria, which re-signify bar food without erasing its origins. A clear example of how São Paulo cuisine manages to navigate between the popular and the sophisticated with ease.

CASACOR Publisher is a creator of exclusive content, developed by the CASACOR Technology team based on the knowledge base of casacor.com.br. This text was edited by Yeska Coelho.