A tour of the Central Market of BH: 8 places to visit

More than nine decades ago, a space that occupies three streets and an avenue in the center of Belo Horizonte (BH) was built by the city government to boost the city's commerce. Existing since 1929 , this place is the Mercado Central — as written on the facade of the main entrance, on Avenida Augusto de Lima —, which receives more than 1.2 million visitors per month and has already been consecrated as the third best market in the world . People walk along the sidewalks surrounding the market. This density is even greater in the more than 400 establishments present on the site, which have a huge variety of purposes — and thus show that the city's municipal agency's project was very successful. When entering this gigantic gastronomic, cultural and touristic sea that is the Central Market of Belo Horizonte , it is common to get lost in the multitude of elements or not know which places deserve to be prioritized among so many opportunities for experiences. Below, check out the tour given by the Minas Gerais reporter of the CASACOR editorial team — who speaks to you here — going through 8 essential places to visit when visiting the most coveted tourist spot in the capital!

1. Sabiá Commercial

In any corner of BH, you can eat a good and traditional cheese bread. At Comercial Sabiá , however, you will find one of the most popular cheese breads in the city: the stuffed cheese bread . It can be stuffed with cheese and pork, with cheese and guava paste, or with cheese and dulce de leche and cheese. There, it's done the old-fashioned way and without ceremony . The cheese breads are baked on the spot and arrive piping hot on the customers' plates, who usually eat them on the counter. Oh, and how do you pay? Cash only!

2. Mining Farm

To delve into the delight of Minas Gerais sweets , Fazenda Mineira is the place to be. The display window features huge buckets with several creamy options of typical sweets from the state, such as the classic Romeu e Julieta and several different types of dulce de leche . The customer can choose the quantity they want and buy based on the kilo, but for those who just want to taste, there are smaller options: a slice of dulce de leche with Canastra cheese for R$9, Romeo and Juliet for R$9, or a small cup with the sweet of your choice for R$3.50.

3. Antonio's Apothecary and Aunt's Bar

Liver steak with onions and okra : if you ask anyone from Minas Gerais to name the best dishes at Mercado Central, this dish will definitely come up in the answers. Both Botiquin do Antônio and Bar da Tia, which are across from each other, are references for liver with okra.

The two bars have a long history in the market. Botiquin do Antônio has been around since 1963 and is known as the first craft brewery in Minas Gerais. Bar da Tia was founded in 1980 and was the first place to serve liver with okra in the Mercado Central. The corridor that separates the two establishments is dominated by a bohemian atmosphere accompanied by good food — in other words, the essence of the capital of Minas Gerais.

4. Two Brothers Cafe

For those who plan to arrive at the market early, the tip is to start your visit with a coffee. In this case, Café Dois Irmãos will not disappoint you. At this place — which will celebrate its 50th anniversary in 2024 — the coffee comes very fresh and can also be accompanied by the famous cheese bread .

5. Bakery Du Pain

The Mercado Central can even provide you with croissants and sourdough breads made on the spot — and in person . The artisan bakery Du Pain is responsible for this experience , which created a French-inspired space inside the market.

The place, however, shows that it doesn't leave its Minas Gerais identity aside, with its highly sought-after corn cake – which is even better with a coffee.

6. Full House

The name really doesn't lie: at Casa Chela, the place is always full. The restaurant is an extremely traditional gastronomic spot in the city, with a menu featuring one of the most famous dishes, feijão tropeiro , as well as other very traditional flavors of Minas Gerais. But it's worth remembering: when you visit, it's important to reserve some time during your tour to wait in line.

7. Ronaldo Cheeses & Cachaças

There is no shortage of cheese at Mercado Central. If you look around any corner of the market, you will probably spot a store: one of them is Ronaldo Queijos & Cachaças . The establishment offers all types of Minas Gerais cheeses from various places in Minas Gerais — and it also offers a better cost-benefit ratio than supermarkets.

8. Pie Point

Remember the liver with okra? Ponto da Empada was inspired by this dish and offers something that has become just as traditional: the okra pie . accompanied by meat and bacon . As in most food establishments in the Mercado Central, the pies are made on the spot and you can even see them being made up close. In addition to the classic okra filling, many other flavors of this savory snack are offered. Ponto da Empada is special because it keeps alive a Belo Horizonte tradition that has existed since the 1920s: empadas . They were the kind of snack that accompanied the heated debates of literary figures such as Carlos Drummond de Andrade and Fernando Sabino . The writer from Minas Gerais, Pedro Nava , even reserved part of his literature to describe the empadas of the old Trianon bar, located in the center of Belo Horizonte: “The most sumptuous empadas I have ever eaten in the world. They were powdery despite being greasy, toasted on the lid, soft from their rich filling. They melted in the mouth. They spread in the blood.”